Let's face it, cloth diapers, especially in adult sizes, represent a sizable investment. Given adequate care, they not only may cost less per change than disposable diapers, but many will find them more comfortable. Likewise, plastic panties will be more comfortable and they will last longer, when managed correctly. Since questions about all this care are asked frequently, here is advice based on information received from others.
Cloth diapers are generally made from either pure cotton or a combination of cotton and synthetic non woven absorbent material, often called "sponge." Cotton diaper-weave gauze is the material that allows the best flow of water through it, so it can be washed the cleanest (D101). However, nearly all gauze pre-fold diapers also contain synthetic sponge material in the soaker panel. While it is designed for use in diapers, such sponge can hold more bacteria than would plain gauze. The advantages of gauze diapers are comfort, ease of washing and drying, great absorption and very good hygiene. Disadvantages are initial cost and the myth that gauze is delicate. Birdseye weave cotton washes nearly as clean as gauze, with the same caution about sponge fill (D102, D103). The advantage of birdseye is that the fabric is more tear resistant. The disadvantage is that it is not as soft nor as absorbent as gauze. Cotton flannel is much more difficult to wash and dry than gauze or birdseye. A major problem is that even with the best laundry technique, flannel will contain bacteria. Advantages are that it starts off soft, it costs less per yard, it is widely available in patterns and prints, and it is much easier to sew with ordinary equipment (D104, D105, D107, DD110). Disadvantages are the buildup of bacteria, weight, and rapid loss of absorption and softness with use. Cotton Terry cloth suffers from all of the problems of flannel, with an even more severe bacteria buildup.
When we picture diapers flapping on a clothes line, in our mind's eye they are snowy white, or their print is vivid. The reality is that if we use so much bleach (and such long presoaks) as to keep diapers that white, we reduce their useful life to a great extent. For long, comfortable life, we need to expect that our diapers will yellow with use. The purpose of bleach is to help reduce bacteria more than to remove all stain and discoloration. It is possible to use stain removers on diapers, but again we have to consider the reduction in useful life. The same thing holds true for fabric softener agents. They all involve a slight coating of the fabric, which can irritate sensitive skin and will reduce absorption. Most experts caution against the use of chlorine bleaches for diapers and colored material. I certainly agree, so I only use and recommend borax based bleach, such as BORATEEM. Some special diaper detergents, such as DREFT contain some borax bleach. IVORY SNOW is another old favorite, but it contains no such borax.
Nearly all cloth, when it leaves the factory, contains chemicals which hold the threads together during manufacturing. This is often called sizing. It is similar to starch, which irritates many people, especially in the diaper region. For that reason diapers need special washing before they are first worn.
Start a load of new diapers in warm water, stopping the washing machine after a brief agitation to let them soak for an hour. Next, spin them until the machine drains. For the first wash in hot water, use IVORY SNOW without borax bleach or DREFT, in the amount the box instructions direct for the quantity of new diapers being washed. Let the cycle go to completion. Next, run those diapers through one more cycle with warm water and half the normal amount of the IVORY SNOW or DREFT.
After all that washing, either dry on a clothes line in bright sunlight (which is always best for diapers!) or in a dryer with the heat no higher than medium, using as much time as necessary so that the diapers are almost completely dry. The trick to have wonderfully smooth and absorbent diapers that smell nursery fresh when using a dryer is frequent cleaning of the lint trap, the liberal use of antistatic dryer sheets (such as CLING-FREE) and taking the diapers out while they still have a tiny bit of moisture in them. Smooth the diapers as you stack them. If they have a hint of moisture, wrinkles will disappear. Leave the stack of diapers in a warm place with some air circulation and they will finish drying as smooth as a hairless baby's bottom! Of course, if diapers are held on a clothes line correctly and a gentle breeze is blowing causing them to flap, wrinkles will not be a problem either!
Okay, what about diapers that have been worn? Even if a diaper has not been wet with urine (pee pee) it will hold some sweat, which many folks find more irritating than fresh urine. Therefore, all diapers need washing after being worn for even a few minutes! The name of the game is to start the washing as soon as practical after the diaper has been used, especially if soiled with anything besides sweat or urine!
And remember, poop happens! Lucky babies have a loving mommy or daddy who will scrape off the excess poop. Next, the soiled didee should be rinsed with cold water, since hot water only tends to set fatty/greasy material like poop. After such a rinse, many folks use a presoak in a mild borax bleach until the time comes to wash the diaper. Read the directions on the bleach carefully. If washing is going to be delayed more than 12 hours, you might want to remove the soiled diapers from the first presoak, re-rinse them and put them in the pail with the others waiting to pre washed.
It is best to run a load of diapers at least every other day, so they are not wet all that long. Those of you who do not have your own washing machine, or who only use a few diapers a week, might well need to do some presoaking in a pail, doing your rinsing in a shower or bathtub, if you only want to deal with coin laundries once a week. Leaving diapers unwashed longer than a week is tacky! Folks who do that deserve to have their diapers wear out super fast!
Once the diapers are ready for the washing machine, things are really simple. Any diapers that show a fresh stain perhaps should get a shot of stain remover a couple of minutes before going into the washing machine. Try to load the machine moderately. But please remember that you do need enough diapers in the load so that they rub against one another. That is where the washing is happening. For this reason it would be nearly impossible to wash a single diaper in a machine! Terry, birdseye and gauze diapers should be washed with hot water until the final rinse. Flannels vary, so test to see if your flannel diapers might not require washing with just warm water. DREFT is a wonderful diaper detergent, using 2/3 the recommended amount based on the washing machine. Other commercial detergents work well, but you will still want to use 2/3 the recommended amount, split so that some goes into the pre-wash cycle and most goes in the next main wash cycle, which is where you can add the BORATEEM in the fully recommended amount. The bleach will remove the bacteria and it will not cause an over sudsing problem in the machine. It rinses out well, leaving no detergent scum.
Experts in the commercial laundry business believe most people waste detergent by using way too much. The disadvantage is the scum, and in the diapers a loss of absorption, which is what diapers are all about.
Let the washing machine do its own thing until the middle of the final rinse. If you want to add a bit of fabric softener like DOWNY, now is the time to do so. My suggestion is to only use the softener with every other load, and even then only use 1/3 the recommended amount! After the final rinse, let the machine spin the diapers. If possible, you might want to use a second spin cycle.
Drying is the same as with
the new diapers. Of course line drying in bright sunlight is the
perfect way. Old fashioned, true, but also traditional!
The most popular material for modern waterproof panties is non-boilable vinyl . A few styles of panties designed for serious institutional use are made from a special so-called boilable vinyl. Some are made from nylon to render it waterproof. Rubber and latex panties are also still being made, though the genuine model PLATEX STRETCHY BABY PANTIES were discontinued in 1954. Those of you wanting to wash anything besides the normal non-boilable vinyl should consult an expert, such as the manufacturer.
Like diapers, the name of the game with vinyl panties is washing them as soon as practical after use, especially if stained with poop or splashed with baby lotion or oil. Fatty, oily substances cause vinyl to stiffen and eventually crack. That is one good reason to always rub baby lotion into your skin completely. It's even better to have a loving mommy or daddy do this! How sensuous! Maybe you've noticed how plastic panties tend to get stiff and awful around the legs and waist? Well, part of the explanation is that this is where the panties contact your skin without the protection of your didees. Your skin is warm and naturally somewhat oily, so adding lotion, necessary to protect you from chaffing, only makes the problem worse. Of course, in the waist and leg elastic regions the panties are under the most physical activity. The more the plastic is bent, the stiffer it becomes!
The idea is to let vinyl retain its own natural softeners, called plasticizers, which are slightly oily themselves. This is why they are attacked by other oils. Also, all bleaches, even Borax, and fabric softeners are terrible for vinyl. Unfortunately, soaps and detergents also remove or leech-out the desired plasticizers, so the ideal washing technique is to sometimes simply rinse the panties in lukewarm water before carefully drying them. Fill a bathroom basin less than half full with water into which you can put my hand with no discomfort. Add a couple of DROPS of very mild liquid dishwashing detergent. Start with the plastic panties turned right-side out, with the waist down. Swoop them into the water until the panty is covered completely. Next, while the panty is completely under the water, turn it so the waist is up. Reach through the waist until you can grasp the crotch between the leg openings. Pull that through the waist, so the panty is now inside out and still under the water. After that swish the panty around for another few seconds. The entire dunking only lasts about 30 seconds.
Removing the inside-out panty
from the water, let it hang waist down to drain, gently wring
out the elastic of one leg hole. Next do the other leg elastic
and finally the waist elastic. If you expect to need that panty
sooner than average, pat the elastics dry using a towel.
After attending to the elastic, hang the panty with the waist opening down, using a rod through the leg openings. If such a rack is not available to you, you can modify a plastic hanger by sawing out a section where the hanger connects near the hook on the open side of the hook. Thus you could place the panty on the exposed portion of the hanger through the leg holes. Although not seen them in stores, we have been told special hangers are made which only fasten at one end, like a simple rod. Just be sure the hanger is wood or plastic and not metal.
Let the panty dry inside out only until the temporarily outer surface is dry to the touch, and the waist elastic is still quite damp. At that point, flip the panty so that it is right-side out, shaking off excess moisture. Now hang it on a conventional plastic hanger with the waist up. You can leave it that way for a long time if necessary.
Waterproof panty material does not like sunlight and wind, so drying them on clotheslines in the sun outside is not recommended. Even clothes pins are very bad for plastic panties!
When in a hurry, you can place plastic panties inside folded towels laying flat. The problem is the panties do not air out that way, and you then have a towel which needs serious washing and drying itself, adding to your work. Best is to simply have enough plastic panties that if it takes 6 hours for one to dry slowly, your diapers are covered with other panties.
For the name (and photo) of the wonderful lady who submitted these articles, see DPF Newsletter Issues #96 and #98, 1998 - or join BabyClub.